The Beginning of an Unforgettable Adventure

It all started on a Sunday when we flew to Ushuaia, the city where the end of the world becomes the starting point. I was traveling with Gastón, and upon arrival, we found out that Santi had flown in earlier. The night was simple: a shared dinner and a well-deserved rest, recharging our energy for the journey that was about to begin.

Preparations and the First Kilometers
Monday morning set us in motion with a crucial mission: retrieving the bikes. Both mine and Gastón’s had been left in a container at a fishing company, and to our relief, they were in perfect condition. That same day, Santi’s bike arrived by truck from Buenos Aires, marking the official start of an epic journey stretching from the southernmost tip of America to Alaska. After a quick stop at “La Pataia,” the final point of Route 3 and our continent’s last stretch, we set off. That afternoon, we returned to Isabel, where we enjoyed a hunter-style lamb stew, a dish truly fit for the gods.

The Patagonian Wind and the 3005 Motorcycle Museum
On Tuesday, we headed towards Centro Sombrero, facing the legendary Patagonian wind head-on. Along the way, we stopped at the 3005 Motorcycle Museum, a roadside break filled with stories. That’s where an unexpected detail became memorable: Gastón forgot to bring his passport to get the half-stamp that certifies the Ushuaia–Alaska journey. I managed to sign the stamp, but later lost it, adding yet another obstacle to the adventure. Nevertheless, the spirit of adventure prevailed, and we pressed on.

Ferry, Tierra del Fuego, and a Dreamlike Arrival
Wednesday began with the adrenaline rush of a new beginning. A ferry took us out of Tierra del Fuego, and within a few hours, we arrived in Puerto Natales, where the wind amplified every emotion. Guanacos and rheas became our travel companions as nature unfolded its grandeur with every kilometer. With full stomachs and minds filled with unforgettable images, we ended the night in Puerto Natales with a well-earned rest.

Between Landscapes and Flavors: From Puerto Natales to El Calafate
On Thursday, we set out for El Calafate, traveling along Chile’s charming Route 6, a road that captivates with its contrasts—mountains, lakes, and endless horizons. Crossing into Argentina meant tackling kilometers of gravel roads, a challenge that, despite its difficulty, enhanced the wild beauty of the journey. Upon arrival, we were greeted by Lucas—”El Mayor de El Calafate”—who welcomed us like lifelong friends. We stayed in a lovely cabin, and he took us to dine at Corto’s restaurant, run by a well-traveled chef who prepares homemade, natural dishes. One of them was simply incredible: the best flank steak Milanese in the world.

The Glacier’s Impact and the Test of the “70 Damned”
Friday was a day of extreme contrasts. In the morning, Perito Moreno Glacier took our breath away. The 80-km ride gifted us with stunning views: the ancient ice, its shifting hues, and its immense scale seemed to whisper secrets of past ages. After the visit, we returned for lunch with Lucas and enjoyed a delicious Patagonian lamb in an amazing spot.
By 5 PM, we faced a dilemma: should we continue before or after the notorious “70 damned” kilometers of Route 40—a stretch of gravel that can extend up to 150 km of tough riding? Despite Gastón’s initial hesitation, the experience turned into a personal epic. With determination, we conquered that section and reached Gobernador Gregores as night fell.

Setbacks and Decisions on Route 40
Saturday brought new challenges. From Gobernador Gregores, we rode 250 km to Bajo Caracoles, a tiny town where the relentless wind made its presence known. During our stop, I realized I had lost my envelope containing all my motorcycle documents and my passport—the same one that had already caused trouble at the museum. After attempting to backtrack 100 km to recover them, the wind and the rough road forced us to accept that they were lost somewhere in the vast Patagonian wilderness. Without the option of crossing into Chile via the Carretera Austral, we decided to stick to Route 40, reaching Gobernador Costa, where, despite the strong wind, the scenery continued to gift us with unforgettable moments.

Between Mountains and Lakes: From Esquel to Neuquén
The next leg was a true journey through the essence of Patagonia. Riding up Route 40, we passed through Esquel and “El Hoyo” before stopping in El Bolsón for a traditional barbecue. In Bariloche, the sight of numerous fire trucks battling the area’s wildfires reminded us of both the fragility and resilience of these landscapes.
We arrived in Villa La Angostura, where hospitality reached another level. We stayed at the home of Elvio, another friend of Santi, and that night, we shared a meal that wrapped us in the warmth of a home. Elvio and his family made us feel like part of the family, closing the day on a high note.
The next day, we embarked on the iconic Seven Lakes Route, a stretch that earned the title of “the most beautiful” part of the journey, with landscapes that looked like something out of a dream. In San Martín de los Andes, we tried empanadas that were said to be the best in the area—though they left us with mixed feelings. A chance encounter with a British rider traveling South America on his GS1200, with over 320,000 km under his belt, reaffirmed that the love for the road knows no borders.
Finally, after debating whether to stop in Zapala or El Chocón, we decided to push through to Neuquén, the final destination of this stage. There, we were welcomed by El Colo, a friend recovering from a motocross accident just a week earlier. Soon, we would be happy to see him fully recovered as we got back on the bikes to continue the adventure.